Hair Removal 101

Here are the basics to know about the major types of hair removal: Waxing, Shaving, Depilatory Creams, Laser and Electrolysis

Waxing

How it works: Warm wax is applied to the area and removed in the opposite direction of the hair growth, pulling hairs out at the root.

Best for: Legs, underarms and bikini area.

Pros: Temporarily removes hair at the root for an average of around three weeks of smooth skin (two to six weeks depending on your hair type/thickness).

Cons: You have to wait for the hair to grow in again to remove it.  Treatments can be moderately painful, as hair is being ripped out at the root, but become more tolerable over time. Waxing can also lead to ingrown hairs.

Cost: Anywhere from $35-80 for salon waxing, depending on areas waxed and your salon of choice.

Tip:  Stimulants such as coffee before your appointment can increase sensitivity. 

Shaving

How it works: Removes hair at the skin’s surface by cutting it off with a razor.

Best for: Legs, underarms and those with fine, lighter hair. 

Pros: Inexpensive, painless, quick and easy.

Cons: Regrowth happens quickly, and since hair is cut off at the surface, regrowing hair is blunt, not tapered, so it can appear thicker. Razor burn, nicks and cuts can happen. And regular shavers can also be prone to ingrown hairs.

Cost: Razors and shaving cream can be inexpensively purchased at any grocery or drugstore.

Tip: For those who can’t quit their shaving habit, “growth reduction” with a few laser sessions can help you shave less often.

Depilatory Creams

How it works: Hair removal creams use chemicals to weaken the hair so you can effectively wipe it away.

Best for: Those who want quick, easy, relatively painless at-home results. Most popular for facial hair, bikini line and underarms.

Pros: Can be done at home, and removes hair slightly below the surface of the skin, so promises slower and less coarse regrowth than shaving.

Cons: Chemicals in these products can irritate sensitive skin, particularly in more delicate areas. These creams are infamous for their odor and can also lead to ingrown hairs. It can be really messy.

Cost: $6-12 on average for a tube of cream or spray-on depilatory lotion.

Tip: Choose a cream suited for the specific area you’re treating (and maybe light some scented candles in the bathroom to mask the strong smell most of these products tend to have!).

Laser Hair Removal

How it works: Laser penetrates the skin to target the hair shaft and inhibit hair growth. It essentially destroys the follicle, meaning it can achieve permanent removal. Typically, the hair in treated areas falls out within 2-3 weeks.

Best for: People with hair darker than their skin — while professional dermatologists can vary the type of laser used, laser is not suited to people with dark skin or pale hair, because it targets the melanin in the hair, so the laser needs to be able to lock on to the dark pigment and needs to differentiate the dark hair from the skin.

Pros: Great for long term hair removal in all areas. “It causes no damage to the dermis so the most sensitive skin can be treated,” says New York dematologist Dr. Ariel Ostad.

Cons: Laser hair removal can be painful, with most people describing it as a “snapping” sensation against the skin, and a sensation of heat from the laser. Also, you won’t know how well you respond to the laser until at least the 2nd session.

Cost: $50 to $400 per treatment, with an average of six sessions recommended, depending on the area being treated. Several cycles of treatment are usually recommended to capture the hair follicles at different stages of the growth cycle. Some people require touch-up treatments, especially on larger areas.

Tip: While it may seem expensive, in the long run, many consider laser removal to be an investment that can pay off. “It is the most cost effective treatment considering how much one can spend over a lifetime with options such as waxing or electrolysis,” says Ostad.

Electrolysis

How it works: Uses a fine, needle-shaped electrode to apply an eletrical current to the hair follicle.

Best for: Small areas such as the face (eyebrows and upper lip) and underarms, because it treats each hair/follicle individually, so is time consuming and can get expensive.

Pros: Can permanently remove hair and is suitable for very fine and light colored hair, unlike laser which works best on darker hair.

Cons: When improperly done, electrolysis can lead to scarring or skin discoloration. Treatments can be uncomfortable, and cause a “stinging” or “pricking” sensation. And permanent results require multiple sessions.

Cost: Averages at around $45-65 for a 30-minute session. 

Tip: Dehydrated follicles can be more difficult to treat, so be sure to drink plenty of water the day before, the day of and the day after your treatment.